It started in 2016 as a one-off trip from Rochester to Brighton by coast. It was a great route to explore. Relatively flat and easy to follow. I loved this experience so much, so naturally wanted more.
You can see my progress on this map. The coast I covered is marked in red. Do note, that this is a rough visual representation, not the exact route you can download and follow.
I usually continue where I stopped last time and my trips are 7-10 days long. Ideally I wild camp, but don't mind an official campsite or a hotel now and then.
The text below is from my Facebook blog and I deliberately haven't edited it much as it represents my views and experiences at the time. Some things changed and today's me, would probably do things a bit differently, but hey, it's a never-ending process of change.
Click on the pictures to expand/open the text.
Day One
The trip began at 09:00 AM in Rochester, which is worth exploring on its own, but we skipped it this time as the plan was to do around 150 km on the first day and we had little clue of what cycling conditions we were going to face.
One thing we knew, it is quite a populated area, so there was no need to carry loads of food and water. As long as you have some cash and a card, you will be all right. One thing I would mention - a good bag pack is your number for a longer trip. My friend learned that the hard way, as she had one of these bags, that sports clubs give away to their customers. It becomes a tool of torture after 8 hours of cycling.
We followed river Medway at first and it was a nice view to the eyes, used to London landscape. Much greener and fresher if you don't mind the smell of sheep, horses and cows. Farming is common around there.
You will have a good quality road most of the ride towards Margate and to Folkestone but put more aggressive cyclocross tyres if you want to follow the coast as close as possible. We had a few kilometres of rough chunky gravel washed away by waves. You may struggle if slick road tyres are your preference. I have to admit, I enjoyed it with my mtb tyres...
You may lose the number of tiny coastal towns you pass by. They are all cute and worth stopping for a snack or coffee, not to mention the never-ending coast, cliffs, forts and castles scattered along the way.
We had a hotel booked at Folkestone, it was cycle-friendly and stored our bikes inside the hotel for no extra fee.
According to my Garmin, we did 142 km on the first day with a hardtail and a hybrid - you can probably do more with a road bike, depends what are you aiming for. We stopped occasionally to take some pictures, have a snack and rest. Had a proper lunch in Margate. Would recommend planning a bit shorter distance for day one if you want to explore the area more in-depth.
Day Two
Cloudy and windy morning, body a bit tired, but no major issues. Flat and good quality path by coast helped to warm up and we cycled forward with spirits high.
You will need to cycle on local roads sometimes as there are few military bases on a beach... No access. Apart from that the view is a bit monotonic until you reach Dungeness. Truly a unique area with hard-to-describe energy around, not to mention painted black houses, abandoned boats and lighthouses. A nuclear power station in the background adds extra character. Want to come back there soon.
A route from Dungeness towards Rye is also mostly flat. Loads of farmland around and not many pubs or coffee shops to stop by, so have a decent breakfast in Folkestone.
Rye left a great impression, it still has this medieval look and castle. Worth spending some time there. Local legends mention a tunnel between two pubs which a gang of smugglers used for their dirty jobs. Do let me know, if you ever find it.
Soon after we left Rye, it started to rain. Just as we approached Hastings, Battery Hill challenged us and I have to admit - that climb was a bit too much. However, the views from the top are great and you have a fast descent down to Hastings afterwards.
The original plan was to cycle from Rochester to Brighton by coast in two days. Soaked by rain and exhausted, we decided to finish a trip in Hastings and took a train to Brighton (the hotel was booked already there).
Would I do it again? Yes.
Anything I would do differently? Would add one extra day, to have a bit more time for exploring towns, villages and castles.
The most helpful item on this trip? Garmin Touring Plus with a route I uploaded from Google Maps.
The item that hurt us the most? My friend used a very basic bag pack, only suitable for a short walk to the gym.
Thank you for reading!
Day One (74km)
Coast adventure continues and this time I was riding my new bike with size plus tyres. Surely it was tempting to cycle on the beach itself and it works, as long as the sand is not too soft.
I took a train from London Cannon Street Railway Station directly to Hastings. It took me about two hours and cost £13. The train wasn't too crowded and I met some road cyclists travelling the same direction to Seven Oaks. We had a nice chat and it only strengthened my belief, that most people are positive.
The route from Hastings to Brighton was mostly off-road and followed the coast very closely. You get guaranteed stunning views especially when you reach Seven Sisters Country Park.
Technically it is a pedestrian path only through the cliffs and you should not cycle there. Especially close to the cliffs itself. I could not resist and cycled up and down. Be careful if you attempt so, at least stay away from the edges.
You will pass some nice coastal towns on your way, so buying a snack or a drink should not be an issue. No need to carry loads of provisions.
It took me about 5 hours to get to Brighton, you will have to climb some fairly steep hills.
Be aware of the nudist beach just when you start to see Brighton in the distance. There is no way through if you cycle by the beach and it is a dead end anyway. Had to walk back and pass some naked dudes twice...
For those on a tight budget, can recommend Grapevine Seafront Hostel. They are bike-friendly and will keep your bike safe inside the building, just give them a call in advance.
Day Two (93km)
I was lucky. The second day was sunny and nice too. After some breakfast and a massive cup of coffee, I headed further towards Portsmouth. The route was a bit less entertaining than the day before. It is totally flat and soon after Brighton, the path just ends, so you can't follow the coast & end up cycling on countryside roads.
I have tried to ignore Garmin's suggestions a few times but ended up getting back on the suggested route.
The good thing is, the roads are mostly quiet and you pass some nice towns with old-school pubs and antique shops.
Portsmouth itself is stunning, with loads of history there, especially for fans of military history. I have spent a few hours exploring it and want to come back. Plus it has a ferry to the Isle of Wight. My new destination for the next journey.
Introduction
Travelling is addictive. I was thinking about my next trip just after I came back from my cycling trip from Cambridge to London. It was not easy to pick the next destination as there are so many areas still unexplored.
I made a decision randomly a few days before the holiday started. Isle of Wight on a day one, Portsmouth to Bournemouth on day two and further to Weymouth on a third day.
Those, who follow my adventures, may remember my big goal - to cycle around the coast of the UK, off-road where possible. This trip was part of this project and I would say, not the worst. The views are just stunning. Seriously. Had to stop myself not to taking pictures every time, I saw something nice.
Booked a train from Waterloo East to Portsmouth Harbour early in the morning. It was a bit chilly and I felt a bit worried about the weather. It was for no reason - had a clear sky all 3 days in a row!
Day 1. Rushed to the ferry directly from the train station and bought the wrong ticket to Gosport... Yes, lame mistake, which cost me an extra £7. The Ferry to the Isle of Wight, Ryde town is a bit on the right-hand side from the train station. Technically it's the same building. I gave away my Gosport ticket to some random family. Maybe it will give me some karma points...
By the way, Gosport is worth exploring for military geeks. There is a Submarine museum, a Naval Power Explosion museum and much more. Will have to explore it next time I go there.
The trip to Isle of Wight was smooth and you can watch Portsmouth from a nice angle. It has had huge military significance and still does. Signs of that are still visible: military fortifications, and cannons. Old and modern battleships. It was a pleasure to watch all of that.
The island itself is a gem, it looks so different from the mainland and a big part of it is still untouched. I felt like in the Jurassic Park movie. I haven't tried to visit all the recommended places, just rolled around the island and enjoyed the moment. Cycling on a beach was an experience hard to match. Barry Godin, thanks for the recommendation to get a size plus bike! (tyres, not the size of the frame)
My route around the island, followed the coast where possible, so it wasn't hard to navigate. Just followed the cliffs. You will need to cycle on roads sometimes, as coastal paths are not always strictly near water. Be aware of cars as roads can be narrow sometimes and with little visibility due to sharp turns and loads of vegetation.
It was around 80 km from Ryde to Newport, where I had a hotel booked. I recommend Calverts Hotel, it is cyclist-friendly, tidy and well-priced, located in the old town of Newport. Perfect combination.
Day 2. My journey continued the next day, had to get back to Ryde. Another 13km or so. Note that the ferry goes roughly once per hour in the colder season. Traffic wasn't crazy in Portsmouth and it was easy to leave the town behind. T
They have cycle lanes/paths more or less on the whole route until you reach a coast again.
One mistake I almost made – try not to miss the working hours of Warsash Ferry. It's a tiny boat, that will help you to cross river Hamble. Otherwise, you will have to make a long detour to the nearest bridge. Prices and opening hours here: http://www.hambleferry.co.uk/
I reached Bournemouth when it was already dark. Make sure you have your lights charged and some spare batteries. It is a combination of rough terrain and cycling on roads. There is a cool path near Brockenhurst, no cars, but quite a few horses wandering around. It starts at 70th kilometre from Portsmouth. My Garmin was showing 113 km when I finished the second day. Bourne Hall Hotel is another nice place to stay if you are cycling around Bournemouth, good price, has friendly staff and is bike-friendly. Kept my beast safely inside the hotel.
Day 3 was the hardest as it involved the most of climbing, but it was worth it. You can save some energy and time if you take a ferry from Sandbanks Terminal, not far from Bournemouth. Check for time and prices here: http://www.sandbanksferry.co.uk/
The route is rich with nice places to see: Corfe Castle (£9 for old dogs like me), Lulworth Cove, Old Harry Rocks, Durdle Door and many more. The landscape itself is stunning, you go up and down and it is a bit off-road sometimes especially if you stick close to the cliffs/coast. I managed to reach well over 50km/h on one of the descents. On a size plus bike without suspension, it was good fun!
There is also a huge military base Lulworth camp on a route with massive territory protected from entry, guys do live shooting practice there, better not to try to cross the fence. Sadly there was no training when I was passing by, so only took a picture of two armoured vehicles at the main gate.
The hard job begins soon after you enjoy Lulworth Cove (if you go by the coast) You will climb. Climb a lot and it will be the same to Weymouth. Some bits of the coastal path is for pedestrians only plus it is used for farming, so loads of fences/gates to cross. Some are so narrow, I just had to lift the bike over. Many times. It slows you down and is annoying, but that's a price for a great experience (and ignoring "hikers only" signs)
Last ten miles I was going fast because of the pre-booked train, got to Weymouth 7 minutes before departure. It was intense. I also stopped for coffee or to take a picture too many times during the day... A good way to add some adrenalin.
To summarize it was a great adventure and I recommend this route for everyone. The beauty of it. It's very open for customizing: roadies can stay on the roads and still see loads, those who prefer it rougher, will also find loads of challenges accompanied by stunning views. You can also camp, I saw loads of campsites on my path.
Some numbers and details:
Distance: 250.07 km, cycling time: 16h, Elevation gain: 2,485 m, avg speed: 15.4 km/h, calories burned: 7,418 C, max speed: 56.4 km/h, bike used: Pinnacle Ramin 3 Plus
Thanks for reading, enjoy your next ride!
As Spring is picking up the pace, the time has come for me to continue the UK coast ride. The planned route was Southend - Felixstowe - Great Yarmouth.
The trip started smoothly and in good spirits. I was a bit surprised by so many cyclists on a train towards Southend, perhaps due to the long Bank holiday weekend. I could barely fit my size plus bike into the train.
Sunny and windy - Southend was rather empty and sleepy when I headed towards the first challenge - river Crouch at Burnham Ferry.
There was little to mention on the way there. Mostly quiet countryside roads and villages. Fairly flat and to my joy - with mostly friendly drivers passing by.
The landscape started to change when I got closer to the coast again, it became crossed by small rivers and some flood control infrastructure.
There was a smile on my face when I saw the Burnham ferry, full of boats and yachts.
To my disappointment windy weather sabotaged the ferry services and it was cancelled for a whole day due to dangerous conditions.
At least I had a nice lunch at the local cafe, mostly used by visitors of the nice yacht club nearby. My hopes to meet a drunken captain, hungry for extra coin were shattered. I was not able to ride by the coast and had to do a long detour, much deeper inland than intended.
This means I also missed 3 more ferries and cycled to Colchester by road, with coastline somewhere further away.
My Garmin gps computer was a bit confused by me not following the uploaded route, so it took longer to find an alternative route. By the time I got to Colchester, it was too late to ride further towards Felixstowe, so I decided to camp in a Colchester holiday park instead.
The staff was extremely helpful and let me in without advanced booking. They also gave some tips, on where to eat locally. It was a nice experience after a weird day.
Just after dinner, it started to rain properly and I had to hide in the tent early. The rain did not stop all night... Huge thanks to MSR company for making a proper tent Hubba Hubba NX. Not a single raindrop reached me and my kit!
The next morning Colchester met me with strong winds and black clouds surrounding the city. However, most of the museums and interesting places were closed due to the Bank holiday. The same happened to train routes to London. There were none.
After a huge cup of coffee, I concluded – that sometimes it's just not meant to happen. Everything was indicating against cycling further, so I took a train from Colchester to Ingatestone and then cycled back to London.
To be honest it was a more pleasant ride than the previous day's attempt as Google Maps generated a fairly smooth route through nice villages and some farm fields and parks.
I reached home in a good mood and will continue my Coast Ride from Colchester next time!
Some of you may remember that I finished my last trip in Colchester. Naturally, this was a starting point for this trip. I booked a train from Liverpool Street station. Deliberately came a bit earlier, just in case and this was a mistake. The train was delayed by an hour first. Later few stops got cancelled, which meant I could only reach Witham. At least I explored this area too. The nice and sunny weather kept me in a good mood.
Day One
Harwich was the first ferry I had to use and it was cool – a tiny boat and a very helpful crew. Felt a bit like a D-Day landing when we hit the bank on the Felixstowe. There was another ferry soon afterwards - to cross river Deben. Both ferries are not free, around £4 each. Make sure you check opening and closing times...
There were numerous villages and towns I passed on the first day, so there wasn't an issue with getting food/water. I pushed myself to go over 100km per day and reached Cakes and Ale campsite in late evening. It is located near Theberton. The campsite is very tidy and clean, great place to stay if you want some comfort.
Day two was a bit more cloudy, but no rain. I was able to stay as close to the coastline as possible and even cycled on a beach occasionally.
Windmills, bunkers (so-called pill boxes), and ruins of churches went past me until I reached Happisburgh – a town slowly eaten by the sea. These are only part of the things I saw that day. The route is mostly flat and it was a truly inspiring day.
I cycled until it got almost completely dark and there was no campsite around, so did my first wild camping in the UK, somewhere near Trunch town...
Day three was sunny again. I stopped in Cromer for some coffee and breakfast. Thanks to Henry's Coffee and Tea Store! We had a nice chat with the owner and the visitors of the cafe. I also walked around Cromera a bit, it is such a nice town.
I kept cycling all day and used some of the Coastal Paths too...Views from cliffs were worth it. There is an RAF Marham base nearby - saw these guys practising above in the blue skies. The sound of jetfighters flying above was impressive.
During a random coffee stop, I met one guy, who recommended I avoid Kings Lynn during the night as it's not safe.
He suggested I camp near Sandringham, the country retreat of HM The Queen. I reached it in the late evening and found the campsite he mentioned.
It was Sandringham Camping and Caravanning Club Site. Cosy and well maintained.
It started to rain by then and did not stop the whole night and the day afterwards.
All wet, I reached Kings Lynn on day four and I decided to finish the trip for this time.
First thing I must say, I was very lucky with the weather this time. It was sunny during the whole trip with only short summer rain, which was nice and refreshing.
The morning of departure was my style. Was messing around at home for too long and ended up almost late for to train at Kings Cross station - arrived there five minutes before departure, managed to collect tickets and boarded the train. I probably looked like a skinny madman with a crazy look and a huge bike running through the station.
Day one
There is something about Kings Lynn that I don't like, we just don't match. Maybe I am wrong and missed something nice about it. Anyway, did not stop there for long and rushed up to the North.
Due to rivers Nene, Welland and Heaven, it was not possible to ride on a coast. I was forced to cycle a bit more inland this time.
A few times my Garmin suggested I cycle on A17. Luckily there were alternative roads to avoid that. Lesson learned - check and double-check the route before uploading it to a navigation device.
There were no hills on the first day, so I was able to go reasonably fast on my size plus bike, loaded with all the camping kit.
Some of the things I saw: were a huge Sutton Power Station and a shooting range nearby. Gunshots and the industrial landscape created a bit of a Stalker atmosphere. (old book, movie and computer game - check it out)
I cycled 123 km in total and found a nice Millbrook campsite near Sandilands. To summarize the day, it was OK. Maybe less rich of nice views as I only reached the actual coast somewhere near Skegness.
Day two
After a nice coffee and packing back the whole kit on a bike, I continued my ride towards Grimsby with its spectacular architecture: Grimsby Dock Tower, Victoria Mill and many more. Got curious about the place and read more about its history.
It once was a huge fish supplier for the whole country, which slowly declined over time and seems like the city is trying to find another way of success. I hope they will.
The next place to visit was Barton-upon-Humber and no doubt the Humber bridge. I was impressed by its look - many old buildings. A bit frozen in time, but in a good way, not so sterile and glossy as some other towns. Views from Humber Bridge were shockingly spectacular and you can cycle on it!
Full of emotions and well impressed I continued towards Kingston upon Hull, another place I had never been before. It was the most bombed UK city after London during WW2, so most of the buildings were built afterwards.
Hull has some charm and I found it a nice place to visit. It was also nice to meet a good friend of mine after 8 years or so. Rita, thanks for the coffee and cake, cyclists love this combination!
Soon after Hull, I jumped on the old railway track, which is now used as a cycle path. Great way to catch up on some distance, if you have been lazy on the first part of the day. I was going fast all away until Atwick, where I found a campsite with a sea view! 132 km in total.
DAY Three
It started nice and smooth, it was a pleasure to cycle on a coast and always have fresh sea wind as the weather was properly hot these days.
I stopped by to explore Skipsea Castle, which doesn't exist any more, only the mound it once stood on remains. Still, nice views from it and worth a short stop, don't forget to say hi to the curious cows patrolling nearby.
Another spot I adored a lot, was Bridlington. A cute town on the seaside where everyone seemed in a good mood. Had a nice lunch there and continued further by the coast. Still mostly flat with no major climbs.
Next stop - Filey. Cosy and adorable coastal town, which contributed to aviation a lot as its sandy and flat beaches were good for flying early designs of planes.
I then continued to Scarborough with its castle and great views and pushed further on Cinder track (previously a railway track) There are some nice off-road sections if you turn right more on the cliffs themselves, but be careful as it is a bit edgy. On the other hand, - the scenery is hard to ignore plus I found a WW2 bunker hanging on the edge of the cliff. Took some pictures from inside...
My adventurous wandering around and not following the Cinder track blindly had some sequences.I did a shorter distance that day and spent more time on the road, which led to a bit of a disaster at Whitby.
It's one of the cities, I wanted to properly explore, however, I reached it only well after 22:00. It was getting dark rapidly and I found that none of the hostels/hotels was accepting customers any more and there were no campsites nearby.
Wild camping was the only choice left, so I cycled a bit further away from Whitby and turned right to some public bridleway. The first attempt was a bit miserable as I was approached by a bunch of cows. Curious beasts did not let me pass and just stood around with a dedicated look in their huge eyes. I assumed that it was probably best to cycle a bit further and find another field without the walking factories of milk.
I found another public path soon and just built a tent on a roadside, it was well after midnight by the time I jumped to my sleeping bag. Slept well that night.
Day four
Had an alarm set for 6:00 in the morning to avoid a random tractor driving on my tent. Packed and made sure, I left no rubbish or any signs of my night stay. The day was sunny again. Just after I left Runswick Bay, a tiny fisherman's town, the landscape became more industrial with loads of factories visible around. It felt a bit strange to see so much concrete and heavy traffic again. Middlesbrough and its Transporter Bridge was a good example of that.
The city lost a lot of pre-war buildings due to the intense Luftwaffe bombing, so no shock, it looked so modern. I also saw some oil platforms being repaired/built a bit further north, a truly impressive view.
I reached Sunderland towards the end of the fourth day. My power bank (USB charger), Garmin and phone were in desperate need of charge. I also felt a bit worn out after the previous night, so rewarded myself with a stay in a hotel. Done 100Km. There, in a hotel room, I found out about a terrible fire accident in Grenfell Tower. Sad. I hope some lessons will be learned...
Day five
Recharged and feeling fresh I jumped on a bike again to continue my journey by the coast. Had a brief look at New Castle Upon Tyne and stopped by for a proper breakfast. Sadly, the coffee wasn't so great. It surprises me, that some places dare to charge £2 or more for a cup of instant coffee.
Soon afterwards I reached South Shields on a river Tyne and coast. Nice and interesting place. I will revisit it to explore it more in detail at some point. One of the things I was impressed with - well the preserved Roman Fort Arbeia.
I continued further towards Cresswell, Druridge and the ruins of Warkworth Castle. I won't go into more details about all smaller towns, but must say, its superb route loaded with historical and monumental places. Done around 100km that day and stayed in a nice campsite in between Dunstan Steads and Craster.
Met a fellow cyclist there, who retired already and is bike packing on his own. We shared some coffee and stories. I was impressed to find, that it was his 16th day of the trip. Truly an inspiring chap.
Day six was interesting as it started to look more and more countryside with gaps between towns increasing. It was also easy to navigate as I bumped onto NCR 1 (National Cycle Route 1) Must say, well done to the people who manage it, so easy and smooth to follow it.
I stopped by the ferry to Farne Islands – a paradise for bird lovers equipped with powerful photo cameras and binoculars. Pedalled further to Bamburgh Castle, probably one of the most stunning fortresses I have seen so far.
Rushed forward to visit the Holy Island of Lindisfarne. Was lucky to arrive on time and could cross safely as you can only reach it on low tide.
Sadly, the castle there is under serious repair, all covered in scaffoldings. Sure it's a good thing in the long run as it will be preserved for future generations.
The island itself is worth a visit by all means. It has this feeling of remoteness. For some reason, I could also hear a soundtrack from Twin Peaks somewhere in the background.
Be aware of unexploded ordnances if you wander into the dunes as it also was a target practice area for the army...
Had a nice lunch there and a pint of Guinness. Made sure to leave before the tide went high.
It was very rural afterwards and NCR 1 just led me by coast very smoothly. Reached Berwick upon Tweed without much effort.
This was a decision time. Part of me wanted to keep going all the way to Edinburgh, other part of me was being more realistic. I had no nutrition products left, my mind was full of things I had seen already and I could feel some apathy slowly coming closer.
To cut it short, I bought a train ticket to London Kings Cross and got home around 2 in the morning.
I will continue my trip around the UK soon.
Scotland, I am coming!
Some numbers and facts: Bike: Pinnacle Ramin 3 Plus (27+) Luggage: Alpkit handlebar and saddle bags, Deuter backpack 30l, Tent: MSR Hubba Hubba NX, Navigation: Garmin Edge Touring Plus, Energy: 10 000 mAh Powerbank, Calories burned: 15721C, Distance: around 650km, Cycling Time: 38 hours
Thanks for reading. Enjoy the next ride!
Hunger for adventure was strongly felt these few weeks as my last trip was a while ago.
Some of you may remember, that I cycled from Kings Lynn to Berwick upon Tweed last time.
Naturally, the next step seemed to be Scotland. I looked for a train ticket to Berwick a few weeks ahead, as soon as I secured my holiday. Yet the prices seemed too high, well over £150.
Luckily my UK Coast ride goes both ways, clockwise and anticlockwise. To put it simply - I got a ticket to Weymouth for £17...
I was a bit more prepared this time. Thanks to Alpkit. Bought a custom frame bag from them and it helped to load more food, water & clothing on a bike. Had enough food for 8 days or so.
Naturally, this also came with a penalty of extra weight. Devon & Cornwall proved it to be a serious one. It was the most hilly route I have done so far in the UK.
The trip started with a ride from Blackheath to Paddington, a great warm at 6 in the morning. Saw a freshly killed fox on a road. Well, remains of it. Wasn't the most inspiring sight knowing that my trip would involve some busy roads.
Day One
Weymouth welcomed me with a sunny beach and it all looked promising. Just before I left it, heavy rain came suddenly. It was just a short one, I had to take water waterproof jacket off again.
Soon afterwards I reached Abbotsbury, a village partly built of stones/bricks from the old abbey, that once stood nearby. The Fleet lagoon nearby was also used to test bouncing bombs for Operation Chastise.
I tried to stay on the coast as much as possible, but my progress was often challenged by not ridable pebble stone paths and gates meant to prevent farm animals from leaving their field. Also to stop weirdos like me, riding a coast path instead of walking...
I managed to reach Seatown, near the highest point of the South coast – Golden Cap. It is also famous for its Jurassic fossils on a beach.
The next stop was Lyme Regis, a beautiful town on the seaside, which I want to revisit one day, possibly without a bike. Had a great dinner at the Thai restaurant Largigi. Yes, I sinned and sometimes ate food not made by myself.
It was getting late after I left Lyme Regis, so I started to look for a campsite. That is rarely a problem in this bit of the UK. Found one without any effort.
Had no idea, I was being watched when walked around the camp to find a place to pitch a tent. Slept like a baby on the first night and woke up early for another adventure.
Day two
I was fiddling with my MSR Windburner to make some coffee and food when an older guy approached me from his camper van. Richard. A retired engineer in his late sixties. He was a keen cyclist himself back in day.
Richard saw me the day before and according to him, I looked knackered. He insisted on making me a proper breakfast. Offer any cyclist will happily accept.
I was loaded with eggs, beans, some meat and bread. Even got some snacks to carry in my bag pack.
We also shared some life stories. It is one of the reasons I love to travel, because of the people you meet on the road. God bless you Richard!
I continued my trip towards Seaton, a small seaside town, which has a long history, people lived here 4000 years before the Romans arrived and built some Iron Age forts. In 2013 a chap named Laurence found over 22000 Roman coins with his metal detectors here. Give it a try, when you visit Seaton, maybe he missed some...
Soon afterwards, I reached Beer. Its name has nothing to do with a drink, most of us love it. It's a small and cute village, packed with old and modern history. Beer Quarry Caves are located nearby, a source of stone for over 20 cathedrals. Skipped it due to lack of time, but will come back at some point.
Bacteria from Beer Cliffs was sent to the International Space Station. The results of this research may help humanity to build colonies on other planets. It is also simply a nice place to walk around, there is a tiny river crossing the village and I found it very charming.
I enjoyed cycling towards Branscombe and Sidmouth - very steep descends and narrow paths, a bit of adrenalin guaranteed. There was some folk music festival in Sidmouth on the day of my arrival: costumes, and people singing, really felt awesome and gave me some extra energy to keep going.
I made some faster progress towards Exmouth as it's an old railway track, converted to a cycling path (NCN2)
Some nice views from a ferry boat from Starcross to Exmouth. There is something cool about small ferries, it gives this amplified feeling of adventure.
Soon afterwards I crossed Dawlish - a fishing village, which grew to a resort town. It was the home of the pneumatic train, designed by Brunel. The town looks awesome from Lea Mount – like from an old picture.
It was getting late when I reached Teignmouth, the last UK town invaded by foreigners in 1690. France was feeling adventurous...
Soon afterwards I passed Babbacombe with its Kents cavern. It's open to the public and has thousands of years of history.
Torquay was the last town I visited on a second day, it was full of young people enjoying their summer holiday. A bit loud and with the smell of weed, it felt less attractive somehow.
I found a campsite near Brixham, but reception was closed already, so I pitched the tent anyway and paid in the morning.
Day three
I reached Brixton early in the morning, it was a bit cloudy and I was fascinated by this town. It has an interesting story to tell: Iron Age fort on Berry Hill, Dutch surnames and street names from King William III landing (his army was mostly Dutch), Brixton was also used for D-Day departures and has rich maritime heritage. Most importantly for me, it felt natural and not too cheesy or touristy
Had to take another ferry from Kingswear to Dartmouth, a town easy to fall in love with. Had superb coffee and sandwiches at Dart Cafe, could not resist and walked around a bit.
It is a place, that just feels right. There is also loads of history, which I will skip to save you and my time. To say shortly, definitely worth a visit.
Route continued towards Torcross and Salcombe. This bit was less hilly, so I managed to do some extra miles.
Got in trouble towards the evening. The route I made on Google Maps, led me to some busy A roads. I wish I had checked it more in detail at home.
It started to rain as well, so it was a bit end of the day. Huge thanks to the drivers - most of them overtook me at safe distance.
Reached a campsite near Brixton and slept well that night.
Day four
I came to Plymouth and had a look around, seemed a busy and tidy city. It was clear, that it requires more time for exploration in detail. May come back for a weekend someday.
Jumped to the ferry afterwards and finally reached Cornwall. Headed to Seaton with its rocky beach. Mostly cycled on quiet B roads and just followed the coast as much as possible that day.
Reached Looe soon afterwards, a picturesque coastal town, known for its fresh fish. It is also divided into two parts by river Looe. It seemed busy with tourists, but it was a charming buzz, far from London madness during peak hours. Had some coffee there and promised myself to return in the future.
Cycled past Polperro village and continued to Fowey, a town positively frozen in time.
Heavy clouds kept gathering in the horizon all day. They started to march towards Penhale Campsite where I stopped for a night. Soon after dinner, I jumped in my tent and hell opened.
It was the heaviest rain I ever experienced. A huge thanks to MSR for designing the tent in a great way, not a single drop reached me. It was raining all night and only stopped around 11:00 the next morning.
Day five started a bit late as I was trapped in a tent by heavy rain. Finally, the sun came out and I kept going. Kings Wood was a great find, an old forest with some off-road'ish paths.
Veryan was another village I crossed, famous for its round houses and declared as the loveliest inland village by John Betjeman.
I saw a gathering of local people there, they all seemed to celebrate something. All dressed in colourful clothing, they attracted my attention, so I asked a girl passing by, what was going on. She replied that it is the funeral of her dad. You can imagine my face afterwards, felt a bit stunned.
Apparently, this is a tradition in her family or Veryan village. I tried to look for any reference online, but could not find anything so far. Was it a dark joke or did she mean it, remains a mystery to me.
The next stop was ST Mawes, a friendly village with a ferry service to Falmouth. Be aware of the waves rolling over the tiny boat. Had a cold and salty shower, when parked a bike in the front of boat. However views were worth it. St Mawes castle looks great. You can also observe some Royal Navy ships when you head closer to Falmouth.
I came there just before Red Arrows started their show, so Falmouth was buzzing with locals and tourists. Felt a bit cold after an adventurous boat trip, so ordered a strong Irish Coffee... It warmed me up and just after I left the central part of town, the show of jet fighters started. I was lucky as the view from the hill was perfect.
Continued my trip through small villages and slowly fell in love with Cornwall. Its green, yellow and blue landscapes. It reminded me of the Lord Of the Rings by Tolkien. A place where hobbits and elves once lived?
Reached Coverack as the sun was low already. Sadly Giffgaff decided not to work there and I was a bit worried about how to find a campsite. Haven't seen one for a while.
Was already considering the option of wild camping, when I randomly found YHA Coverack. The receptionist kindly allowed me to pitch a tent even when it was already fully booked.
Met some nice people there, mostly people walking the coastal path. It was great to have a chat after a few days of being on my own. Also used the opportunity to charge my power banks, Garmin and phone.
Went to sleep late and smiling. Solo travelling is a great reminder that we are social beings and need some talk at least occasionally.
Day six
Woke up a bit later and had a good breakfast. Cycled on some A roads, which was good for speed, but a bit scary. Took every opportunity to use alternative routes, where possible.
Reached Lizard Point without major issues. Stunning views. Very popular destination which locals seem to use well: great selection of souvenir shops, cafes and restaurants. Took some pictures and headed further towards Penzance.
Passed by Royal Naval Air Station Culdrose. Biggest helicopter base in Europe. Guys there don't waste time, saw a few flying over my head just in a few minutes.
Arrived in Penzance around 16:00 and stopped for lunch on a beach. The view to St Mitchell Mount was mesmerizing. It's a tiny island with a medieval castle. Accessible when the tide is low (by walking)
Headed further and soon reached rail station of Penzance. It was a tough moment as my body started to feel tired after 6 days of riding and my brain became a bit ignorant of the sights around me. I guess we can only absorb a certain amount of experience in a certain time.
The decision was spontaneous. I took a train back to London and headed home. Again I was surprised how nice people can be. The manager of the train took my bike in as extra, even as all spaces were booked in advance. Thanks!
Reached Paddington just after midnight and had a night ride to Blackheath. It was a good time to process all I experienced in these six days.
Will continue soon!
Some numbers and facts: elevation ~ 6000m, distance cycled around ~ 450Km, average speed: ~ 15Km, calories burned: ~ 13000Cal, max speed: ~60.9 Km/h, bike used: Pinnacle Ramin 3 Plus, bags: Alpkit, food: Adventure Food (dehydrated), stove: MSR Windburner, tent: MSR Hubba Bubba NX
Thanks for reading!
This time I went to cycle from Penzance to Cardiff. This is part of the bigger plan to cycle around the coast of the UK.
A big risk I took this time, was the weather - the end of March could be fairly nice or bad. It was bad – intense rain for 4 days of 5 and low temperatures. Needed full finger gloves most of the time. Camping in this weather was also more challenging than I would prefer.
The route itself was gorgeous. I tried to stay on the coast where possible. Views from cliffs, the murmur of waves and seabirds singing kept me going. I always felt a boost of energy, when the route takes me closer to the coast.
Knowing I only had 5 - 6 days, I had to go a bit faster this time and only stopped briefly to explore local points of interest. I promised myself to come back at some point. Things that impressed me most:
Nature. Raw and a bit rough. Wast open spaces with wind-battered rocks and plants,
Medieval-looking coastal towns with old churches, cemeteries and castles.
Remains of the old mining industry of Cornwall – abandoned buildings and infrastructure give a bit darker mood, especially on a cloudy and rainy afternoon.
People. Met some fine characters during this ride. It does feel like people are a bit more open outside London. I don't see many strangers talking with me here in the city unless they are asking for some change...
I camped for only two days of five due to heavy rain. The ground in the campsites was soaked, mud all over the place. For 2 nights I stayed in YHA (Tintagel & Bristol) and one in a hotel at Minehead (my whole kit was totally soaked, woke up with a puddle in a tent the night before, so decided to treat myself)
To summarize it was a hard trip, which demanded a lot of energy both physical and mental. I guess that is a price you pay for starting travel season early, surely it would have been easier in summer.
I remember with a smile all these experiences. Drinking a beer on the edge of a cliff with a stunning view, little joys like nice Cornish pasty from a local shop, and look of people when I stepped into the local tea house of Withypool on Easter Sunday (all covered in mud and water in full cycling kit. Must have looked a bit odd to these folks)
The hard moments - it was a pleasure to swear in 3 languages loudly in the middle of nowhere when climbing yet another hill.
It's all past now and it is satisfying to see some progress on a map. Already dreaming of a new adventure.
By the way, I added a map of my route to this post.
Some numbers: 5 days of cycling, around 430 km in total, 5000m elevation gained over 13000cal burned. Bike used: Genesis Croix De Fer 30
Thanks for reading!
I woke up today and it feels strange to not to cycle. Even a bit melancholic after yesterday's euphory and feeling of achievement.
As some of you may know, I am cycling around the coast of the UK in segments. This time I started in Bristol and headed towards Liverpool as this is where I finished earlier.
Sometimes I cycle up the coast clockwise, some other times - anticlockwise, depending on the situation.
It took me 8 days to cycle nearly 700km. The original route changed slightly which added a bit more distance. Elevation and a heavily loaded bike - were slowing factors.
Wales surprised me and reminded me of Ireland in some ways though Snowdonia felt more like Middle-earth from Tolkien's books. Nature was rough and beautiful.
I also saw a lot of closed shops, mines & factories. Empty bottles and cans of cheap booze in more populated areas, especially near Cardiff.
It was like cycling through two separated realms that merged somehow. A bit like in Stranger Things... I hope that alternatives to the mining industry and new, more sustainable jobs will be created. As for nature, it's recovering itself and is doing well.
I want to come back to Snowdonia, with a mountain bike next time. There was a hiking path I had to go through due to the route planning error. Walked my bike most of the time, but the views were spectacular.
Thumbs up for Welsh people, they were friendly and helpful. Same with the majority of drivers, most overtook me at a safe distance.
This time I mixed camping with staying in a B&B depending on the weather and how I felt. I also did some filming so the short movie will be released soon.
Some details and numbers: distance: 700km, elevation: 8000m, bike used: Genesis Coix De Fer 30. tent: MSR Hubba Hubba NX, bike bags: Ortleb and Alpkit, tyres: Schwalbe Smart Sam Plus 700x40, navigation: Garmin Edge Touring Plus and Komoot app on the phone.
A bit earlier this summer I took a train to Berwick-Upon-Tweed. The goal was simple - to continue my cycling around the coast of the United Kingdom.
I had a rough route planned to Glasgow, had no return ticket and cycled each day without a strict plan of where to stop.
The weather was excellent, with only brief rain for one day. It was a mix of wild camping, campsites and a couple of hotels.
Towards the 6th day or so, my knee started to feel weird, so I decided to push to Inverness and finish the trip here. 600km done in total.
I took the Caledonian Sleeper train back to London which was great until it broke down in the middle... Got a refund later, but it took me 15 hours to reach London.
The route itself was a mix of great views and slightly boring farmland mixed with industrial forests. On the bright side, I saw many castles which always love!
A tip for myself - don't stick too much to the coast and adapt the route along the way, to cross more national parks and similar beauty spots.
Scottish Highlands next and Northern Ireland at some point too...
Thank you for reading!
The idea was to start in Glasgow and push up towards the Highlands without committing to a specific endpoint.
Day One. A bit slow start. Had breakfast in Glasgow. It was a cold morning though temperatures picked up a bit as the day rolled.
I reached Aberfoyle, ate a bit and continued forward into the unknown.
The idea was not to burn out on the first day, so stopped for the night relatively early.
Day Two. Woke up in good spirits. Slept well although I had a dream of some creatures leaning to the tent. They did not bother me, but their claws were very long... We just shared the space peacefully.
Cloudy day, not too cold though. I reached the Killin area already and had lunch in the family-run cafe Shutters.
Day three was brutal. I chose the wrong route. Well technically Garmin did, but I haven't double-checked.
It was one of the toughest terrains I had to cross. Cycling was not possible for most of the day.
At least the views were great and I had a chance to remember all the swear words I know.
As a reward, I discovered a bothy at the end of the day, just before the Sun went down.
Had no phone or internet connection, so could not even update my friends about my progress or if I was still safe and well. Sorry!
Day four was the opposite of the previous day. Had some paths to ride on, some decent descents and a few challenging climbs.
I reached the Caledonian canal towards the evening and stopped by for a meal and drink in Fort August.
The sun finally came out and I felt hot although briefly, for the first time on this trip.
Found a nice wild camping spot at around 18:00 and decided to call it a day.
Thumbs up to a legendary Barry Godin who "chased" me by a random chance - we ended up doing a similar route with a few day's difference. Great minds think alike!
The morning of day five was magnificent. Sunny and with a mist rolling down from the mountains. It was worth it, to get up earlier!
It also reminded me of Stephen King''s novel...
I mostly followed the lochs towards Inverness, while trying to go off-road where possible.
Sold my Marin Pine Mountain one trip too early, though my Genesis Croix de Fer coped well too.
Best wishes to two ladies I met a few times touring in a similar direction. It was fun to have a chat and coffee later in Inverness when we met again by a random chance.
Day six. So I have reached Inverness! The route was more off-road than I anticipated and the elevation put up a good challenge.
I am not in my best shape due to cycling less recently. Thad led me to an arguably wise decision to finish this trip in Inverness and leave the Scottish Highlands for another trip.
Very happy with the performance of my body, had no knee pain or any other discomfort.
The bike and the rest of the equipment performed well, my gravel bike was pushed to the limits on some of the days.
Glad I am coming from an MTB background, that helped with some sketchy descents.
Now I just need to catch a train back to London and already am dreaming of another adventure!